Ester
Sydney, Australia; 46–52 Meagher Street, Chippendale, Sydney NSW 2008, Australia
The wood-fired oven gives Ester its centre of gravity. Chef Mat Lindsay uses heat, smoke and char to develop dishes that often begin with familiar ingredients and end somewhere less expected. The restaurant’s documented favourites include whole cauliflower, oysters with rich butter sauces and potato bread with cultured cream, illustrating the range possible within a tightly defined approach. Concrete walls and a restrained fit-out keep the Chippendale room intimate and direct. The atmosphere suits shared dishes and an exploratory approach to drinking, with natural wines and a carefully considered spirits selection playing an important role. Although the menu changes, generosity of flavour and an interest in contrast provide a consistent thread through the experience. Broadsheet’s October 2026 listing recognises Ester as an icon with notable service, while Destination NSW also highlights its importance to the city. It belongs high in this guide because its influence has not erased its neighbourhood scale. Visitors encounter a restaurant with a clear point of view, expressed through cooking that remains immediately pleasurable to eat.