HAEBEL
St Pauli, Germany
HAEBEL is a tiny restaurant in St Pauli, with just 14 seats and an open kitchen that makes the meal feel personal. Its surprise menu moves through a succession of small dishes, using fermentation and international influences to give apparently simple combinations depth. The chefs help serve, and the atmosphere is informal rather than ceremonial. Choose it for a closely observed evening of cooking in a lively neighbourhood, and leave plenty of time to enjoy the full sequence.