Kataori
Namikimachi, Japan

On a quiet street beside the Asano River, Takuya Kataori serves Japanese cooking with a strong sense of season and place. Carefully sourced seafood, vegetables and mushrooms receive restrained treatment, while freshly prepared dashi gives the meal its foundation. The small counter lets you follow the work closely. Autumn mushrooms and winter crab are particular reasons to watch the calendar, though the menu follows availability. Securing a reservation requires flexibility and advance planning.