Kiln
London, United Kingdom; 58 Brewer Street, Soho, London, W1F 9TL, United Kingdom
Kiln makes the act of cooking unusually visible. In its compact Brewer Street setting, clay pots, grills and woks establish the pace of the meal, with fire central to both flavour and atmosphere. The restaurant’s scale encourages close attention to what is happening in the kitchen rather than a sense of separation from it. Thai cooking supplies much of the framework, with influences from neighbouring Laos, Myanmar and Yunnan expanding the range of references. The interest is in the interaction of heat, smoke, sharpness and carefully selected ingredients. A sequence of shared dishes provides a useful way to explore the kitchen’s strengths, especially for diners prepared to engage with assertive seasoning. The current Michelin Guide includes Kiln, and its place in this selection rests on the specificity of the experience as much as formal recognition. Soho has no shortage of restaurants, but few communicate their central idea so immediately. Kiln is particularly rewarding for a visitor who wants an informal meal with a strong culinary identity. Its relatively accessible format also helps balance a London list that includes several substantial commitments of time and money.