MAKINONCÎ
Yamanouemachi, Japan
Hirokazu Makino cooks around a U-shaped counter in a wooden house on the hillside above central Kanazawa. French training underpins a playful tasting menu built largely around regional seafood and produce, with dishes finished over fire and served on distinctive local tableware. The open kitchen makes the preparation part of the evening, and illustrated menus help guests follow the meal. It feels unusually personal for ambitious cooking, but places are scarce and reservations need considerable planning.