Matsuzakaya Honten
Ashinoyu, Japan

Matsuzakaya Honten offers the pleasure of an old inn rather than a uniformly modern resort. Timber, tatami, gardens and period details give its buildings character, while hot-spring bathing remains at the centre of the stay. The rooms vary in size and style, so choosing carefully matters here. It suits travellers drawn to traditional interiors and a quieter Ashinoyu setting, with time set aside for dinner, bathing and lingering over breakfast.