Tempura Koizumi
Ikedamachi, Japan
Seijiro Koizumi's restaurant occupies a traditional house in a quiet neighbourhood, where the pace suits a long lunch or dinner. The fuller dinner course reaches beyond tempura, beginning with small Japanese dishes before moving through seafood and vegetables in a fine, crisp batter. Regional catches and Kaga vegetables give the sequence its character, with mushrooms and mountain plants appearing when in season. Rice dishes complete the meal, and the sake selection gives plenty of scope for a local pairing.