Edinburgh rankings

Edinburgh is best approached as a city of contrasting scales. The Old Town rises through narrow closes towards the castle, while the New Town opens into Georgian streets and garden squares. Between them are galleries, independent shops and places to stop over a drink, making the walk itself part of the pleasure. Holyrood Park adds an abrupt change of landscape, and Leith gives the itinerary a waterfront setting with some of the city’s most compelling restaurants. A good stay balances the obvious landmarks with time in neighbourhoods such as Stockbridge and the West End. Hotel choices range from grand railway addresses and richly decorated historic houses to contemporary rooms and apartments with space for a longer visit. The dining selection is equally varied: a serious tasting menu can sit comfortably beside a relaxed Scottish pub meal. Plan the important reservations first, then leave room for weather and inclination. A museum or gallery makes a rewarding change when conditions turn, while a clear interval is worth saving for the hills or gardens. Rosslyn Chapel, in nearby Roslin, is the one deliberate excursion included beyond the city.